Its sounds crazy to listen about the “science behind surfing”.But reality is that there is complicated physics behind it. As a surfer it is must to know how exactly things work.
“As surfer i felt it is easier to learn surfing than science behind it”
How surfboard makes us Float on water
The science behind surfing starts as soon as surfer and surf board hits the water. The surf board structure and light weight helps to displace lot of water. This produce a buoyant force on surf board. This force is equal to the weight of the displaced water pushes up, counteracting you and your surf board weight.
Buoyant force (upward direction) = Weight of displaced water = Weight of surfboard + weight of surfer
Whats causes the ocean Wave?
The wind blowing across the ocean accelerate the water particles near the surface. This wind leads to the ripples on water. This ripples becomes waves. The gravity force acts on this water. This gravity force tries to restore water surface flat and original state.
The pressure is induced into the water through wave. The waves molecules pull and push water neighbouring it. and this motion propagates energy through the water in unison with the wave motion. The motion of these particles is much more limited than the overall motion of the waves.
What happens to energy near shore?
At, the shore the surface become shallow beneath water. Shallower seafloor constrains the motion of the waves. This constraining effect occur in limited region than out at sea. In turn makes wave energy concentration more at shore.
If the topography If the topography of the shoreline is smooth and even then waves become more parallel to the shore as they approach.
Surfing parallel to the direction of Wave
When the wave approach near to the shoreline then we quickly pivot our surfboard in the same direction of wave. Then we paddle to match its speed. At this time your board makes an angle with the water. At the bottom of surf board it creates a dynamic pressure. This pressure is reason for force you and your board out of the water, to skim along the surface of water.
During this time forward momentum is increased. This makes more stable and allow you to stand up and surf along the wave.
When you caught up in the wave
When you caught up in the wave. Need to overcome it.
Surfboard Fins allow you to alter your speed and direction by repositioning your weight. A wave crest is formed above you. The water particles in the wave have great acceleration.
This acceleration makes to move faster than underlying wave. So they shoot ahead before falling under gravity’s influence. This forms the waves’ characteristic curls, or jets. And these broke along the sea shore.
Few times the formed curl or jets might completely enclose part of wave. This forms like a moving tube called as barrel. These barrel last long for 25 seconds also. The time depends on seafloor irregularities.
Many people who passed the time inside the barrel says that “we have felt the time completely different than outside and it was magical”
Waves pattern relies on typography
Not all locations create a big waves and equal waves. This is completely depends on underwater canyons and rock formations. Some locations like Nazare, Portugal or Mavericks, California refract the incoming wave energy into a single spot, creating massive waves sought by surfers worldwide. Few waves travel around 7 days, with swells originating more than 10,000 kilometers away from shore line.
The waves surfed in the California may have originated from the seas of country New Zealand . Like this, factors for waves patterns relies on multiple reasons.